A wood pecker is pecking on the side of the cabin as I write this passage...How nice to hear him thumping away as he hunts for an elusive bug...
I purchased a few other books on traditional cabin building methods and found that one of the key steps to cabin warmth in bitter cold (besides a low ceiling, which I don't have) is proper chinking. There is a long-standing product line called 'Perma-chink" that promises to seal the gaps between log courses and stretch as needed when the logs settle from shrinkage and my research pointed towards their 'Energy Seal' line of chinking as best for my needs.
After striking out at the local Big Box stores, I went to the local high-end construction supply store, Spenard's, and looked at their selection of chinking products. I found a 5 gallon bucket of 'Desert Tan' Energy Seal on the shelf, along with a special caulking gun and bucket follower to dispense the material, but what I wasn't prepared for was the price. The chinking cost $180.00, the bucket follower, $60.00, and the caulking gun, $75.00. I estimated that the 16' x 16' foot cabin would need 4+ gallons of material to chink the 17 courses of logs, so it was cheaper to buy a bucket than large tubes. I also picked up a spatula and masking tape, as the chinking was supposed to applied over some kind of 'bond 'breaker' to ensure the product stuck to the top and bottom surfaces of the gap between logs.

The logs on the cabin are 4-sided, 6" square logs and the inside gaps of the logs have been routed to create a beveled joint. My first task was to cut away the extra fiberglass insulation from in-between the log courses to allow space for the chinking material. I donned gloves, a mask, and work clothes and began the careful trimming which lasted 2 days. After cleaning up the waste fiberglass trimmings I taped off the gap between the top course of logs on one wall and then taped off the wood above and below the gap to keep the chinking material from running wild all over the beautiful logs.
Then came the learning curve. I had decided that I needed something other than just a spatula to 'tool' the surface of the chinking after application, and it seemed to me like a spoon was the perfect fit. I also found an old spray bottle and filled it with water. I should mention here that this cabin is 'dry,' meaning that there is no running water. All water has to be carried in. Before tooling, and after application, the surface of the chinking needs lubrication to ensure that the resulting finish is smooth and beautiful. Using the large caulking gun took a little practice. The nozzle of the gun unscrews easily, revealing the inside of the gun's tube. The charging procedure involves placing the open end of the gun in a bucket of water and pulling water into the barrel to lubricate the next step. Push the water out by pulling the trigger release then stick the barrel on top of the bucket follower, which is a kind of steel disk with a gasketed hole in the middle surrounded by a neoprene material which makes a tight seal on the inside of the bucket. With one hand, push the release lever, with the other, pull up on the gun charging handle while forcefully pushing the barrel tightly on the follower's hole and with any luck, the chinking material will flow slowly inside. A kind of clumsy orchestration of pushing and pulling is needed to make this all happen and a little practice doesn't hurt.

Gloves on hands, the next step was to lightly wet the wood with the spray bottle and begin squirting the caulking into the prepared gap. The chinking is quite thick, almost like peanut butter, and is composed of water, a gritty, sand-like component, and 'acrylic polymer' a plasticizer that reminds me of latex. A significant amount of hand strength is needed for dispense the chinking and I can see why the pros use air/electrically driven guns for big jobs.There is a not-unpleasant chemical smell to the chinking, and nothing that would warrant a protective mask. The vapors didn't cause my eyes to water, which is usually a good sign.
After laying in an appropriate bead of material into the gap, the next step is tooling. First, mist the bead of chinking with water, then wet the spoon. Carefully run the convex side of the spoon down the bead, ensuring that the spoon remains in contact with both the top and bottom bevel. The spoon works best if held at an acute angle with regards to the face of the logs, and most times I needed two passes with the spoon, and even a little touch-up work after that, to get a reasonable-looking finish. After performing the same steps on the next course's gap, I would peel away the protective tape and examine the bead of caulking for any mistakes and correct them before moving on.
I was doing this work after a normal day's work, so the progress I made was a bit slow at first. After some practice I picked up a little speed and the whole process took me about 10 days to complete. A leisurely pace, yes, but one of the ideas behind taking on this project was to learn and enjoy doing it. I also took some time to stuff small strips of the waste fiberglass insulation with my trusty spatula into the cracks which naturally form in the logs themselves, as the spruce trees in the Interior of Alaska tend to twist and bend when drying, which opens up the grain. I heard that the previous tenant has 'froze his ass off' when the bitter cold of deep winter seeped through the unchinked logs and I didn't want a repeat of that nightmare when I weathered January at -45 F.
I learned a few lessons about chinking along the way. Good preparation is paramount to a good finished product and is most of the work. A fair quantity of water is needed to clean up the tools at the end of the day, especially to get all the chinking out of the gun before it hardens into a thick gummy mass. The cheap masking tape I used as a 'bond breaker' proved to be false economy: a few of the seams of chinking opened up along the tape over the following months but nothing drastic. I think the super-sticky, premium 3M green tape would be the best stuff to use next time.
There is one recommendation in the product application instructions that I did not follow and that is the insertion of backer rod into the gaps before applying the bond breaker. The gaps between the log courses on this cabin are not that big, maybe 1/8 to 1/2 of an inch and I didn't feel it was necessary to fill the space with expensive, closed-cell foam rod. Time will tell if this was a mistake, or a modest stroke of financial/labor-saving genius.
A note on the costs of materials for this project. The landlord and I agreed that I would start out with a $1,000.00 budget for necessary purchases, which would be reimbursed. The labor I performed to fix up the structure would be returned in the form of rent, which suited both of us well. This was all on a handshake and in verbal form only, which some might say is a bit foolhardy, but this is the last frontier and a man's word still means something. At least I like to think that's the case...
Next up: I decided I need some place to sleep. A loft is in the offing!
